British Vogue Declares Cleavage Out

“Whatever happened to the cleavage?” Asks Kathleen Baird-Murray in Desperately Seeking Cleavage in the December issue of Vogue.

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Vogue observes that many high fashion labels renowned for their ample displays have this year “sent out girl after girl with legs, midriffs and cut-outs on show but no cleavage.”

Fashion editors and stylists alike are all sharing critical opinions, from saying the amount of skin being an indicator of what little power someone has to blaming social media. A stylist quoted by Vogue said of a client,

“On those occasions where her cleavage is more visible, I see what happens on her Instagram feeds afterwards, and out of 100,000 comments, 90,000 will be about her boobs. That’s not healthy, it’s creepy.”

Women’s fashion has taking many a twist and turn through the years, let alone centuries. Exposed wrists and ankles on women were once considered suggestive. Cleavage has been a relatively newer “trend” in fashion, but one that’s been in our faces dramatically and distinctly. I do believe Instagram has played a role in that. Most current models are considered supermodels simply because of their Instagram feeds and their followers. Even when friends of mine on social media post a photo in a swimsuit or revealing top, someone makes a comment or posts an emoji in negative context.

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Female sexuality and objectification in general have played a part in fashion. For some companies, it would seem critical to their sales or target audience. Fashion is bigger than that and should be more about the clothes, shoes, bags, etc, than reducing women to their physical appearance. Maybe we are at a tipping point where the focus can be the fashion, and it won’t be such an obvious choice to use in ads, campaigns and runways. As mentioned before, there was an apparent lack of cleavage in fashion week, maybe designers have picked up on the disdain; believing it isn’t fashionable. It could be a dying trend, but do trends truly ever go away?

I have been happier with current runways not throwing cleavage out on their runways so heavily.  As a woman and artist, I understand the proclamation people are trying to make, like, its only cleavage, who cares anyway? All women have cleavage, and some believe it should be shown off. But in the patriarchal world we live in, its coming off as a free show and it isn’t furthering the cause of feminism or stopping the double standard effectively. Revealing cleavage isn’t getting women ahead anywhere in fashion and models should be more adamant about who they model for and what they are wearing. It has a bigger impact than they know.

However, its seems like readers have a different opinion. screen-shot-2016-11-14-at-4-31-32-pm

I feel like I lean somewhere between depending on the outfit and being over it from the survey. There is a lot more to women besides cleavage, and beyond that, physical appearances. I don’t think that the views on cleavage and the flaunting of it will be going anywhere soon based on this survey. Too many women unfortunately still tie feminism and empowerment to their image, hopefully that will change. There are enough designers out there who emphasize fashion, maybe with this notion, speak loudly enough to make an impact. Vogue is only the fashion bible after all.

 

Online Creeps Lead Fashion Designers to Call Time on Cleavage, Tom Skyes, November 2016

twitter photo courtesy of Vogue UK

Stuart Weitzman ad courtesy of Huffington Post

Tokyo, Seoul & Beijing Fashion Week

I’m not familiar with hardly any Asian fashion brands, but the style can’t be missed. I know I haven’t been as critical as usual, I’ve just been fairly impressed by what fashion has been offering lately, and the shows from Tokyo, Seoul and Beijing did not disappoint.

Tokyo 

Aula had extravagant fabrics, flowing silhouettes and exotic reference that I loved.

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Motohiro Tanji had such powerful colors with artistic yet conservative fits, which is a combination difficult to come by.

These looks from left to right are from Mint Designs, Beautiful People and the contemporary kimono brand Somarta.

Designed by Tamae Hirokawa, Somarta, known for its seamless knits and other textile innovations, like the dyeing process and hand painted gold leaf design, bring the 460 year old techniques of traditional style kimono modern elements.

Be sure to look out for Mint designs and Beautiful People. Mint designs will show in Paris Fashion Week next year, and Beautiful People plans to expand internationally over the next year! Both had breezy, floral patterns, mint designs using organic and synthetic materials and adding a metallic twist to their looks while Beautiful People has softer, minimal pieces.

Yasutoshi Izumi had feminine business attire that looked extremely sleek.

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Plastic Tokyo was probably my least favorite. It is know for its androgynous attire and was described as music festival essentials, but I think it looked sloppy and over dramatic.

Ujoh had a clean and versatile presentation. I thought the details of the first look were very cool; and the navy of the second look are so professional yet casual.

I thought the men’s street style captured was fantastic, and I love this jacket below.

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Seoul

The layers and detail from SYJP had my attention and the functional, but pretty combination. It made these looks very appealing, like I could give my black yoga pants a weekend break, but run out on Saturday errands and still look fashionable.

The motto at 87mm is ‘no concept but good fashion sense’, allowing for flexibility to create exactly what people want to wear, when and how they want to wear it. This is a relatively new brand, but I definitely agree with their foundation and impressed with the unique styles presented.

Ordinary People had some great pieces in beautiful colors.

Muse by Rose had everything from business to casual to athleisure ranging from sweet to powerful in moody colors and I want it all in my closet.

I really enjoyed the metallics and color contrasts from Pale Turquoise.

You can’t beat this street style! I love the rainbow splatter adidas and the girls makeup.

Beijing

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There was not a lot of westernization at Beijing Fashion Week which I thought was pretty enthralling.

Chuyan had some amazing colors and fabrics. I also liked the traditional and feminine styling.

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NE Tiger was also a beautiful presentation, I loved the silk dresses.

Near White was very refined. The intention behind this brand is that the white tee is the best expression of style. I thought that was an interesting base for a brand, but they did a wonderful job with this collection, each look staying similar to the other, but saying something a little different, each carrying their own.

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These looks from Maryma were a little crazy, but fun to look at. I liked the silver top with the puffy sleeves and bubble ponytail. It reminded me of an outfit Padme Amidala would ear on Star Wars. I didn’t really understand the white headpiece or the sheer middle of the skirt. At that point it might as well be that blazer with no pants look. The skirt itself in silhouette is really nice though.

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A handbag collection by Liu Shengyi. I loved the contrasting strap colors and backpacks.

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Models present creations Oct 31

Which fashion week or shows are your favorite?

photos courtesy of access runway, seoul fashion week, china daily, prokeraia and upi

Paris Fashion Week

When they say we’ll always have Paris, I have to believe they were talking about its impressive fashion. There were so many different styles and ideas and creativity pouring off the runways. My favorites included these yellow/orange color schemes. I just love how rich and bold the color is and also that yellow is such and energetic and happy color.

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Even though the cutouts feel extreme, I love the mix of layers between the skirt, leggings and coat from Balmain.

Balmain, Christian Wijnants

Mugler, Rick Owens

Wanda Nylon, Balmain

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This dress from Aalto is such a unique mix of minimalism and utility. The cinched drawstring waist adds great detail.

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There were a lot of printed, graphic tees on many runways, but I like this one from Christian Dior best and the urban way it was styled.

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I of course had to get a glitter fix, and Kenzo(above) and Mugler(below) did not disappoint. Bonus points to Mugler with the additional shine of those metallic shoes.

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Speaking of shoes, here’s a short roundup of a few great styles exclusively from Paris. Which one would you wear?

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Agnes B

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Balmain

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Elie Saab

Blue shoes are such a fun pop of color against any neutral outfit for spring.

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Valentino

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These Chloe shoes also were in red and they. were. fabulous.

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Watanabe

This bright leopard with white pants is another crisp, easy way to dress up an outfit.

Olivier Theyskens made a return to Paris Fashion week after two years away. I didn’t check on his previous collections, but I thought the linear sportswear was classic and well done.

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The earthy palette from Dries van Noten was so stylish.

Sonia Rykiel’s light fabrics and intrepid details made this runway one of my favorites.

Wanda Nylon designer Johanna Senyk brought streetwear staples to the runway with her signature waterproof fabrics.

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Chanel is always such a smorgasbord of ideas. I liked the use of ball caps, and that the runway included iconic Chanel attire like the tweed skirt. I also adore that multicolor jacket.

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Valentino had the prettiest brightest dress, and if you believe in the idea of MILK(money, ID, lipstick, keys) when going out, those itty bitty bags are a dream come true. They are the epitome of essentials only.

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Elie Saab was my favorite runway of all time. The entire runway was like a brought to life dream of mine. Star print anything is another favorite of mine, and these star studded looks have my heart. The details are perfection, from the jewelry to that pvc bag with gold stars (in the 5th photo from top) I love it love it love it, at the risk of sounding like a fangirl.

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aalto

So that was the breathtaking Paris Fashion Fashion Week, what do you think? Feel free to share your thoughts in comments!

photos courtesy of wwd, Vogue, Elle and parisfashionweek.buzz