New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020

I can’t believe its already September! Summer flew right on by, but I can’t complain, since its that time of year for fresh fashion notions. September 6-14 in New York City kicked off our beloved fashion month, and below are just a handful of the presentations from the week. Stay tuned as we cover spring […]

I can’t believe its already September! Summer flew right on by, but I can’t complain, since its that time of year for fresh fashion notions. September 6-14 in New York City kicked off our beloved fashion month, and below are just a handful of the presentations from the week. Stay tuned as we cover spring and summer styles from around the globe.

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Sharing contemporary takes on modern and traditional style, Concept Korea is a brand bringing emerging Korean designers to the major markets. Korean style is something I always have my eye on. There’s so much depth and variations of dress that make it super trendy. Because Seoul has a small, it has challenges reaching press and buyers in NYC and Paris. So the South Korean government has created this program to help further growth as Seoul becomes a fashion capital. The brands featured were feminine Leyii, creative and bright LIE by Lee Chung Chung and sportswear by IISE Corp.

The collections are distributed worldwide in boutiques, popups, free standing stores in Seoul, and LIE Sangbong has a store open in the meatpacking district in New York. Additionally, IISE is available online

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It was big news that Rebecca Minkoff partnered with Stitch fix, creating an adjustable capsule wardrobe with sizing ranging from xxs to 3xx. High waists, cutout boots, bejeweled slingbacks and swishy dresses were all the pieces to love this season. The mix between neutrals and bold colors presented together, and by color for the show, made for an alluring presentation. Working women inspired this collection and the pragmatism was definitely noticed. The “normal” pieces were elevated, sweater with studded detailing and crisp blazer over a metallic dress. A utility jumpsuit paired with a leopard print heart shape bag, shearling offered in vegan and non vegan options, even a woman breastfeeding during the showcase, all embraced the actuality of a woman’s day to day and made it comfortable.

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Christian Siriano said, “we need to have a little fun in our lives,” and that’s what he did for the spring/summer season. The pantsuit dominated in lush materials and a soft green palette, with gorgeous motifs, inspired by New Orleans artist, Ashley Longshore. It was a more is more runway, but personally, I could have used a low key clothing option here or there. This collection ran particularly heavy on evening wear options, a plisse lettuce edge sleeve gown, a stunning iridescent trench and more cocktail dresses than one person could wear in an entire year, let alone a season. But you know I love a good rainbow piece, and there were about 4 lame looks towards the end of the show that really wowed, only to be left with big, messy tulle gowns that closed out the show.

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You expect what you see at fashion week to be beautiful, but Sies Marjan left me floored. From the first navy blazer set to cascade down the staircase (which also came in red later on), this show was a monochrome lovers dream. The teal pieces might have been my favorite. It seemed to have a little European influence in its quite power. If I have to force a critique on you, it’s that there were a few elongated shirts left unbuttoned and un-tucked, and with the rest of the runway being so structured and refined, that styling seemed out of place.

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Ulla Johnson’s runway was crafted, so obviously it dazzled. This soulful presentation included elements from all around the world. Dresses were loomed in India and bags hand beaded in Africa. There was recycled glass jewelry, Japanese shibori dye prints, Afghani embroidery and Dutch wax print dresses. This globally inspired collection was a winner for me. I can’t wait until it’s available!

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Bohemia’s never been so good at Anna Sui. She stated spring was a challenge, but you wouldn’t know that from such a flawless presentation. Using the likes of chiffon and Victoriana, for lighter, romantic elements. There was some tougher notes by way of khaki jackets and combat boots, given a sugar sweet update in neon and paired against sheer bomber jackets. Tiered, embroidered dresses in lilac to daffodil were a standout, but long layered cardigans and eyelet ponchos over even longer, sweeping floor length dresses were inspirational high notes as well. And what’s spring without floral’s and chambray? Pair them with the trending bucket hat and you’re an It-girl.

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Wes Gordon is keeping Carolina Herrera’s crisp, cutting edge style mixed with all the fun one could wish for alive and well. Everything was perfectly constructed. He played with larger shapes this season, especially in the sleeves. But puffy sleeves are all the rage right now and added flair when it wasn’t necessarily expected. My favorite was that black and white plaid skirt, styled three ways. I loved that practicality, right there to be visualized. I know I want to wear my seasonal favorites all the time, and it was so smart to showcase what else in the collection pairs with another piece for more unique ensembles.

Alejandra Alonso Rojas shared serious but relaxed ensembles in timeless silhouettes. Suede belts, pearl accents, silk suits and dip dyed sweaters were made for ambling down quiet cobblestone streets on a Eruopean getaway or enjoying a sunset at the beach. A linen silk blend will be perfect for hot days or opt for a crocheted dress with fringe when you run out for (another) scoop of gelato. Bermuda shorts seem like a much better alternative to bike shorts, wouldn’t you agree? Whatever is calling to you from this collection, there isn’t a wrong choice.

The Row showed at their Greenwich studio, always stating a call back to basics. I loved the play with proportions, especially using a maxi skirt. I was just thinking about when I last wore one, and I loved the idea of simply pairing it with a crisp button down, untucked and paired with Tevas. Polished but placid, but if you need top off your look, match it with an impeccably tailored blazer or jacket. Don’t worry about any embellishments either, let the power of this clothing speak for itself.

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Vera Wang’s first runway in 2 years was to celebrate 30 years in the business. She called it California Dreaming, but this isn’t the easy going in paradise vibe that may have jumped to mind. This was a runway Lana Del Rey could croon her sad Hollywood song to. Some may still be confused, but if you picked up on the cynicism, you have to smirk. Backstage, Wang shared that the collection is a tension between extreme structure and the softness and delicacy of lingerie. It’s layering to reveal.

Mini to maxi styles had a backdrop of sturdier materials like wool and herringbone mixed with sheer, chain mail and lace. One of the best element was elbow high leather gloves. The mix of materials was very chic, but not all the layers worked. Some crop tops were unusual choices and disheveled varieties seemed oddly paired to sleeker looks. Where it hoped to loosen the structure here and there, it fell flat. However, there were only a handful of these instances, the construction of the whole runway stayed fairly consistent.

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Brock collection’s play with proportions and easy silhouettes as they celebrated 5 years of creating high fashion. Jaquard, poplin and denim were all mixed on this runway for every stage of life. It’s been a lot of fun to see all kinds of styles blended together, forming a more cohesive picture of a person’s way to dress. How one can always be fashionable, whether its just to run to the grocery store or to attend the opera. Matching jacket/top separates offered up even more ways to extend a wardrobe, while billowing organza trains offered transitional options. Highlights for me personally, were a white empire waist dress with delicate puffy sleeves, dramatic corseted frocks and a stunning mauve dress with pearl encrusted straps and rounded skirt.

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Inspired by fashion giants Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, this was unlike any Alexander Wang show you’ve seen before. Being it was the first ever fashion show held at Rockefeller Center, it was a show expected to wow. Of course, fundamentally it stayed true to his ethos, but the fusion-ed homage built up layers nicely nonetheless. Teeny tiny shorts, bold shoulders, corduroy and plaid were just a few elements woven into this runway. Closing the show were 10 all white logo pieces inspired by suffragettes who often wore the color, a remark about patriotism. Paired with a statue of liberty crown in the show and flags printed upside down, a symbol of distress, its apparent next year’s presidential election weighs on many minds.

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The American Dream was forefront in the offering from Michael Kors Collection. Held at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, he shared about learning of his great grandmother’s arrival to Ellis Island at just 14 with $10. Touching on historical significance of American design as well as his own experiences, especially on the tragic anniversary of 9/11, made for a unifying tribute. Spun against the classicism of the 1940s, inspired by the iconic sportswear created by US designers, the line was sprinkled with gold anchors and stars, studded skirts and double breasted jackets in a pinstripe. They all shared in making a statement of strength. But the line avoided any severe misconception by adding a dash of polka dots, gingham, lemon and cherry motifs, and relaxed even with flared out pants and preppy knit sweaters. Nautical styles were further brought about by way of fisherman jackets with rope clasps and sailor hats. The collection was finished off by sparkling gowns with nipped waists, a nod of romance from sea to shining sea.

Runway Favorites

Tory Burch showed at the Brooklyn museum and had a fresh spin on 80’s attire. I instantly fell for a parachute pant jumpsuit with elastic cuffed pants. Tops from Vivienne Hu and Jonathan Cohen were delightful, while Lela Rose has me wishing summer wasn’t over, so I could wear that crisp, eyelet voile dress. Pamella Roland’s black sparkling pant set was such a fun ensemble, I couldn’t help but share it!

Tom Ford surprised me this season with a funky, sport wear infused collection. Held in the subway, it was complete with basketball-esque shorts, maillots, bomber jackets and topped with baseball caps. It was a very luxurious fashion statement. But while it may have been inspired by the gym, its definitely too pretty to be worn it the gym!

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Runway Misses

19th century inspirations from Vivienne Hu were very interesting, but missed the mark a few times. Same for the half and half sweater from Jonathan Cohen. Would you wear that sweater? The voluminous tangerine gown from Christopher John Rogers and a gold corset inspired piece with birdcages and fringe seemed a tad obscene. The sheer suit set from Helmut Lang was very distracting and upsetting in their presentation. (There was one for women as well.)

There were actually a few ostrich feather decorated gowns in Pamella Roland’s collection that were very tasteful. However, the head to toe feather embellished dress that was one of the last to cascade down the runway left me with overwhelming ennui. The tight, feminine strapless jumpsuit, not only didn’t fit with the presentation, but on the model as well. At first Claudia Li’s collection threw me. The windbreaker material had a bold print with family photos and  but I would have preferred the print in singular doses when it ran through the collection as a layering option.

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What did you think of New York Fashion Week? Share your thoughts in comments.

Photos courtesy of Vogue, Elle, WWD, New York Times and New York Post

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