Paris is always a good idea. Have I said that before? Probably. Is it any less true? Unlikely. With industry names and generally, style that can be worn and lived in, it’s easy to see why Paris brings fashion month to a close. Taking one last look back over the fashion from Paris so we can see what things we have to look forward in a few months time. Here are the hits and misses.
Darker, edgy vibes were a medley of personality. Leather jackets, top hats, capes, corsets, studs and a small rainbow dot print at Elie Saab were very dramatic. I loved the scarves that accompanied many looks adding to the drama while providing a light layer that takes you to a crisp September morning. There was a touch of vintage to some of the styles with Victorian era influences that weren’t overplayed and actially quite striking.
The Isabel Marant runway was a mix of bohemia and Americana that was very fresh. Blanket like capes, classic button downs and crisp blouses paired with western style boots were updated silhouettes worthy of the Southwest that inspired them. The end of the show took a turn to eighties trends, lame and metallics completely with big curls. Through and through it seemed an American heart beat in the show, all that was missing were the stars and stripes.
Louis Vuitton had an odd collision, hybrid style never before seen; a good start. A medley of textures, corseted tops with ruffled fronts, tweed skirts with billowing tops and two tone sweaters, sequin collars, gold chain belts, leather pemplum and a few cocktail dresses were all thrown into the ring. It all stood askew, although maintaining ladylike lengths, but I’m not sure what or if that meant anything. It was well fit, and the mix was inviting, but didn’t carry much zest, leaving for a bit of a disappointing ending.
Deep rich colors and fierce animal print were highlights from Givenchy. Dark, polished gowns were plentiful throughout the precisely tailored runway with a dash of sequins to really say let’s party. This fun collection was 80’s inspired, but finally someone gave it a spin and omitted the parachute pants.
Dries van Noten carried subtle statements in an artsy and elegant motif with a healthy dose of flair to go around. Graphic prints were carried across spare lines and excellent draping. Feathered collars, puffy sleeves and bright colors elevated seemingly basic pieces for truly artistic, unique high fashion.
Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino said of this runway, “as an individual, personal, passionate approach to life. I think that is a real strength today, to be able to be fierce, to be strong and gentle at the same time, not to be aggressive but to be assertive. I started this collection with this idea of romanticism as a strength and not as a fragility.” I thought this was a wonderful expression that came together well in the presentation. There was commotion that came with these style, but in an easy manner. Like a fine meal, each piece was just enough, leaving room for a little more. I thought it was a unique choice to use medieval shapes and styles of dressing, but they paired so well with the collection’s palette. Many looks were adorned with flowers and layers, a favorite of mine, the scalloped edges.
Magenta was the popular color choice from the runways. Clockwise left to right Alexis Mabille, Chanel, Alexander McQueen & Valentino. This bright color will be great for fall as it mixes well with other colors, like that maroon dress from Valentino, and is a great accent for neutrals.
Balenciaga started out with simple shapes in electric colors before building extensively and with velocity in its proportions. Mentioning snowboard culture as a point of reference, the runway included hoodies, faux fur and ski parkas sometimes three plus to a model. Layers upon layer upon layers until the final enormous look. It was slightly objectionable, although on a cold day I do look for every possible way to keep warm, as a play on that feeling I’m sure we can all relate to, it was a dose of humor to a fine collection.
Clockwise left to right Valentino, Isabel Marant, Altuzarra & Guy Laroche
Similar to the trendy cold shoulder of last season, but want a little more drama? Paris present the single sleeve. The asymmetrical shape can be very flattering and because of the dramatic style, need little to be accessorized. Dating back to Ancient Greece, where one style may feature a bare shoulder on one side and be completely sleeved on the other, a different take could be draped, puffed, cap or kimono sleeved, just to name a few styling techniques. Various elements like fringe or beading can also be included to add feminism and drama. Asymmetry can also be found in hem and necklines, really making this trend experimental yet timeless.
Where there was pretty and stylish this season from Balmain, the majority of the runway consisted of PVC plastic looking material, meant to be inspired and futuristic that just fell flat. Clear shafts of boots, neon fringe and a quilted metallic suit felt detached and slightly tacky. Numerous looks, however, held iridescent and prismatic colors the made up largely for the aforementioned faux pas. About half of this collection could have been omitted and better constructed for future use, personally, out of a 90 look show, I was done at 38.
More attire from Paris fashion Week! Be sure to tune back in for full length show videos!
photos courtesy of WWD & Vogue